The least forgiving recipe on the site, and the clearest test of an oil.

A cup of oil, nowhere to hide. Soft for days in a way butter cakes never are.

Braised in lemon and garlic, then crisped uncovered. Two cooking methods, one dish.

Three onions, thirty-five minutes, and a splash of lemon juice at the end. There is no fast version.

Tomato paste, cream, a measure of vodka. The technique is caramelization and it takes three minutes.